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Environment
21st Apr '26
| By The Wolf & Badger Team
Fashion produces 92 million tonnes of textile waste annually, most of it premature. Repairing what you own is one of the highest-impact sustainability actions available, and it saves money. Discover our definitive guide to repairs for every material.
Why Repair?
Fashion produces 92 million tonnes of textile waste annually, most of it premature. A missing button, a fraying seam, a worn heel. Repairing what you own is one of the highest-impact sustainability actions available, and it saves money.
Your Home Repair Kit
Before you need a repair, have these ready:
1. Assorted hand sewing needles
2. Thread in black, white, navy, grey, beige
3. Sharp fabric scissors (never use for paper)
4. Seam ripper
5. Spare buttons. Keep any that come on garments.
6. Iron-on hem tape
7. Fabric glue
8. Colour-matched darning yarn
9. Suede brush and eraser
10. Leather conditioner
Optional upgrade: A basic sewing machine and a darning mushroom open up most structural repairs.
Denim & Jeans
1. Inner thigh wear
The most common denim failure, so try to catch it before it holes. Iron-on denim patches applied inside the leg stop it progressing. For a lasting, characterful fix, a specialist can do sashiko darning. Prevention: cold wash, inside out, air dry.
2. Holes and tears
For small holes (under 1cm), use fusible webbing and an iron-on patch from inside, reinforced with hand stitching. For larger tears, visible mending with contrasting thread is a genuine aesthetic, or take to a specialist for an invisible repair.
3. Fraying hems
To keep the fray, apply Fray Check along the fray line to stop it progressing. For a clean hem, a tailor will repair it for under £15.
4. Broken zip
For a loose slider on an intact zip, replace just the slider using needle-nose pliers only. For full zip failure, take to a tailor for a repair that's usually £10–20.
Knitwear & Sweaters
1. Pilling
Not damage, just surface fibres balling up. Remove with a fabric shaver, sweater stone, or careful disposable razor. Do this before washing, not after.
2. Snags
Never cut a snag. Pull the loop through to the inside with a knit pick tool or blunt needle. The loop disappears; the knit is intact.
3. Holes
Fro small holes, Swiss darning (duplicate stitch) recreates the knit pattern and is nearly invisible when yarn is matched well. With larger holes, visible mending with contrasting yarn is a strong craft tradition. Holes in fine cashmere are worth seeing a specialist.
4. Stretched necklines
Dampen, reshape by hand, dry flat. If the stretching persists, a tailor can take in a neckline.
5. Moth damage
Small holes are repairable via darning. Prevention: cedar blocks, lavender sachets, store clean. Moths target body oils, not clean wool.
Silk & Delicates
1. Small tears and pulls
Silk tears along the grain and propagates quickly, so act fast. Apply a tiny amount of fabric glue or Fray Check to stop a tear extending. A specialist can do near-invisible repairs on quality silk using thread drawn from a seam allowance.
2. Snags
As with knitwear: pull the loop through to the back with a blunt needle. Never cut.
3. Seam failure
Silk seams are under constant stress at tension points such as underarms and side seams. Re-sew with a fine needle and matching thread using the smallest possible stitch. On a loved piece, a seamstress is a more reliable option than DIY.
4. Yellowing
White and ivory silk yellows with age and sweat exposure. Hand wash in cool water with a specialist delicate detergent. For persistent yellowing, try a short soak with a small amount of oxygen-based bleach. Never use chlorine bleach on silk.
5. Washing silk
Always hand wash or use a delicates machine cycle using cool water, short spin or no spin. Lay flat to dry and never tumble. Iron inside out on a low silk setting while slightly damp.
Linen
1. Fraying
Linen frays readily. Apply Fray Check to raw edges, or press a hem with iron-on tape. On structured linen garments, a tailor can finish edges properly with binding or serging.
2. Wrinkles
Linen wrinkles are structural, not damage. Iron while damp on a high linen setting, or use a steamer. Many linen wrinkles release with steam alone.
3. Thinning and holes
Linen thins at high-friction points such as collar edges, elbows, waistbands. Reinforce from inside with a fine cotton interfacing before it holes. Small holes can be darned; larger ones require a patch or specialist.
4. Linen care
Machine wash on a gentle cycle at 30–40°C. Linen softens with washing; stiffness is normal in new linen and improves over time. This is a fabric that genuinely gets better with age and wear.
T-Shirts & Casual Cotton Tops
1. Collar stretching
Cotton jersey necklines stretch with wear and washing. Wet the neckline, reshape by hand, dry flat. With persistent stretching, a tailor can take in a neckline, or sew a few tacking stitches inside the collar to hold the shape.
2. Small holes near the hem
A very common issue caused by friction against trouser buttons and belt hardware. Reinforce the area from inside with a small iron-on patch. Prevent by tucking shirts in or choosing metal-free belt hardware.
3. Colour fade
Wash inside out in cold water, use colour-protecting detergent, and dry away from direct sunlight. Once faded, fabric dye can restore a solid-colour T-shirt at home. Simply follow instructions carefully and test on a hidden area first.
4. Print cracking
Screen prints crack as the ink ages and the fabric stretches. Wash inside out and on a cold, gentle cycle to slow progression. Once cracked, it cannot be fully restored but the piece remains wearable.
Dresses
1. Zip replacement
The most common dress repair. An invisible zip in a back seam is straightforward for a tailor and typically costs £12–20. A broken zip is not a reason to discard a dress.
2. Hem adjustment
Dress hems drop and sag at stress points. Iron-on hem tape works for casual dresses. For structured or formal dresses, a tailor will ensure the hem falls level all the way around.
3. Lining failure
Dress linings split at the hem, split at seams, and detach from bodice tops. A tailor can replace or repair lining in most dresses for £20–40. On a dress worn regularly, this is standard maintenance.
4. Waistband repair
Elastic waistbands lose tension over time. A tailor can replace the elastic through the existing casing. On fitted waist seams, re-sewing a split seam takes minutes.
5. Shoulder seam stress
Heavier dresses pull at shoulder seams. Reinforce with small hand stitches inside the seam, or take to a tailor for a proper reinforcement stitch.
Skirts
1. Hem drop
Skirt hems drop through wear and washing. Re-press and use iron-on tape for a quick fix. For a lasting repair, hand stitch or take to a tailor.
2. Waistband stretch
On elasticated skirts, replace the elastic by unpicking a small section of the waistband casing, threading new elastic through with a safety pin, and re-sewing. Takes under 30 minutes.
3. Lining static and tangle
Lining that clings or twists is usually a sign of static build-up from synthetic fabrics. A fabric conditioner in the wash, or an anti-static spray, resolves this.
Trousers (Casual & Chinos)
1. Seat and knee wear
Cotton chinos and casual trousers thin at the seat and knees. Reinforce from inside with iron-on interfacing at the thin stage. Once a hole forms, a tailor can patch from inside.
2. Belt loop repair
Belt loops tear at the stitching point with regular use. Re-stitch by hand with strong thread, or a tailor can reinforce or replace a belt loop for £5–10.
3. Hem fraying
Apply Fray Check or take up the hem. On smarter trousers, a tailor's finish is worth the cost.
Tailored Garments
1. Taking in and letting out
Most well-made trousers and jackets have seam allowance built in for this purpose. A tailor can adjust by up to an inch on most garments.
2. Worn trouser seat
Wool trousers thin at the seat before they hole. A tailor can reinforce from inside at the thin stage for under £20. Catch it early.
3. Jacket lining
Splits at pocket corners, underarms, and hem. A tailor repairs for £15–30. Left alone, it spreads and eventually affects the jacket's structure.
4. Dry cleaning frequency
Over-cleaning shortens garment life. Spot clean where possible. Dry clean a full suit 1–2 times per season maximum. Press with a damp cloth between cleans.
Shirts & Blouses
1. Collar and cuff wear
A tailor can turn a collar by detaching, flipping, and reattaching with the less-worn side facing out for £10–20. Adds a year or more to a quality shirt.
2. Small holes
Iron-on patches from inside on casual shirts. For fine fabrics, a tailor can do an invisible repair using fabric from a hem allowance.
3. Stain removal
Act immediately. Blot, don't rub. Cold water for protein stains (blood, sweat). Warm water and dish soap for oil. Never put a stained item in the dryer as heat sets stains permanently.
Velvet & Corduroy
1. Crushing and flattening
Velvet and corduroy pile flattens with pressure and wear. Hold the item over steam and brush gently in the direction of the pile with a soft clothes brush. Most crushing releases with steam.
2. Marks and pulls
Treat velvet as you would silk: with extreme care. Never iron directly; use a velvet pressing board or a towel, face down, with a steam iron held above the surface.
3. Cleaning velvet
Dry clean only for structured velvet garments. Velvet jersey and stretch velvet can often be hand washed very gently in cool water, but always check the care label and test a hidden section first.
4. Corduroy pilling and wear
Corduroy wears at the wale (ridges) over time, losing pile at high-friction points. This cannot be reversed, but progression slows significantly with cold washing and air drying.
Embellished Garments (Sequins, Beading, Embroidery)
1. Loose sequins and beads
Re-attach individual sequins and beads by hand with a beading needle and matching thread. For a large area of loss, match replacements from a haberdasher and bring the garment to colour-match exactly.
2. Broken embroidery threads
Secure any loose thread ends with a small knot or dab of fabric glue on the back of the fabric. Re-embroider missing sections with matching thread. Embroidery is a learnable skill and small patches of stitching are manageable for beginners.
3. Washing embellished items
Always hand wash or dry clean. Machine washing loosens attachment threads, beads, and sequins rapidly. Turn inside out, wash cool, and lay flat to dry. Never tumble dry.
4. Storage
Store embellished pieces flat or on a padded hanger, never folded in a way that puts pressure on the embellishments. Tissue paper between folds protects raised surfaces.
Activewear & Sportswear
1. Elastic failure
Waistbands and leg elastic in activewear stretch out with repeated washing and wear. A seamstress can replace elastic in a waistband casing. On well-made pieces with stitched-in elastic, it's a more involved repair but still possible.
2. Pilling on performance fabrics
Synthetic performance fabrics pill rapidly, especially in high-friction areas. Remove with a fabric shaver. Prevent by washing inside out in a mesh bag, on a cold gentle cycle.
3. Seam splitting
Activewear seams take significant stress. Re-sew split seams with a stretch stitch — a regular straight stitch will break again under movement. Most sewing machines have a stretch stitch setting; alternatively, a back-and-forth zigzag works.
4. Odour retention
Synthetic fibres trap odour-causing bacteria. Add white vinegar to the rinse cycle, or soak in a baking soda solution before washing. Specialist sports detergents (Nikwax Base Wash, Sport Suds) are formulated for this. Never use fabric conditioner on activewear; it coats the fibres and worsens retention.
5. Logo and print peeling
Heat-pressed logos and prints peel at the edges over time. Iron-on hem tape applied to lifting edges slows progression. Avoid tumble drying decorated activewear.
Swimwear
1. Elastic degradation
Swimwear elastic degrades with chlorine and salt water faster than almost any other garment. A seamstress can replace elastic in a swimsuit or bikini bottom, a repair worth doing on a well-made piece.
2. Colour fade
Rinse swimwear in cold fresh water immediately after every swim. This removes chlorine and salt, which are the primary causes of colour fade. Wash in cool water with a gentle detergent; never machine wash or tumble dry.
3. Fabric pilling
Fine swimwear fabrics snag on rough pool edges and sun loungers. Remove pills with a fabric shaver. Use a mesh bag for machine washing if needed.
4. Underwire displacement
On underwired swimwear, underwires shift and poke through fabric at the casing ends. Re-sew the casing closed with a few hand stitches. A small square of iron-on interfacing inside the casing prevents recurrence.
Lingerie & Underwear
1. Bra underwire
Underwires that poke through are the most common lingerie repair. Stitch the casing closed with hand stitches and reinforce with a small patch of iron-on fabric inside. Alternatively, moleskin padding over the exit point as a temporary fix.
2. Bra strap elastic
Worn or stretched bra straps can be replaced. Replacement strap sets are available in multiple colours for under £5. A seamstress can also shorten straps that have permanently stretched.
3. Hook and eye failure
Individual hook and eye fastenings break and can be replaced by hand, just make sure to match the size to the existing fastening.
4. Lace repairs
Lace tears are difficult to repair invisibly. A dab of fabric glue or Fray Check prevents a tear extending. For pieces worth preserving, a specialist in textile restoration can repair fine lace.
Leather Jackets & Bags
1. Scratches
For minor scratches, rub with a fingertip; warmth reduces visibility. For deeper scratches, work in leather conditioner or colour-matched leather cream. If the gouges are deep, apply leather filler then matched leather paint, or take to a specialist for invisible results.
2. Cracks and dryness
Cracked leather is dehydrated leather. Apply a quality conditioner (Leather Honey, Saphir) twice a year before it cracks, not after.
3. Peeling
Genuine leather doesn't peel. Peeling means bonded leather (leather + polyurethane) reaching end of life. Touch-up paint buys time; the material is degrading and cannot be permanently fixed.
4. Lining tears
A tailor or leather specialist can replace jacket lining often in a fabric of your choice. Usually £30–60 and makes a loved piece feel new.
5. Hardware failure
Zips, buckles, clasps, and handles can all be replaced. A cobbler or leather specialist does this routinely and it extends bag life by years for a fraction of replacement cost.
Shoes & Boots
1. Heel tips
The rubber bottom of a heel wears faster than the heel itself. Replace at a cobbler for £5–10. Don't wait until the heel structure is damaged, as the repair will be more expensive.
2. Resoling
Quality leather-soled shoes with Blake or Goodyear-welt construction can be resoled multiple times. Glued soles on cheaper shoes cannot. This is where construction quality pays off over a lifetime.
3. Leather care
Polish and condition every 4–6 wears. Use conditioner if leather feels dry, then colour-matched cream or wax polish, finish with a horsehair brush. This is maintenance, not repair so do it before you need it.
4. Suede care
Brush after every wear. Use a suede eraser on marks before they set. Spray with protector at the start of each season. Never use water – it leaves permanent marks. Dried mud brushes off cleanly.
5. Scuffed toe caps
Fine sandpaper to smooth, matched leather paint, then polish. A cobbler does this for £10–20 with near-invisible results.
Accessories (Scarves, Belts, Hats, Gloves)
1. Fraying scarf ends
Apply Fray Check or hem tape to the raw edge. On silk and fine wool scarves, hand stitch a narrow hem. A tailor can add a proper rolled hem for a professional finish.
2. Belt holes
Add a new hole with a leather punch tool. These cost under £10 and take seconds. Use the existing holes to space correctly. Never use a knife or scissors as the hole edges will tear.
3. Belt edge wear
The painted edges of leather belts chip and peel. Rub back the loose material, then apply edge paint (available from leather suppliers) in a matching colour. Rub with a bone folder to seal.
4. Hat blocking and reshaping
Felt and wool hats lose shape with humidity and crushing. Hold over steam and reshape by hand — the felt becomes pliable under heat and holds the new shape as it cools. Serious reshaping: a milliner or hat specialist can re-block to the original shape.
5. Glove seam repair
Leather glove seams split at the fingers, the highest stress point. Re-sew with a thin leather needle and matching waxed thread. A small, tight stitch. A leather specialist does this for £5–10 per seam.
6. Cashmere and wool scarves
All the same repair rules as knitwear apply.
Outerwear
1. Down jacket holes
Small holes shed feathers immediately. Seal with Gore-Tex or Tenacious Tape and apply before washing if possible.
2. Waterproofing restoration
DWR coatings degrade with washing. To restore, wash the garment, apply wash-in or spray DWR restorer (Nikwax, Grangers), and tumble dry on low or iron with a cloth as heat reactivates the coating. Do this once or twice a season on active outerwear.
3. Coat lining
As with jackets, coat lining splits at hem, pocket corners, and underarms. A tailor can repair this for £15–30. A full lining replacement in a quality coat is £40–80 and makes it feel new.
4. Toggle and zip replacement
Toggles on duffle coats, and zips on parkas are all replaceable. A tailor or seamstress handles this straightforwardly. Match hardware as closely as possible.
Synthetic Fabrics (Polyester, Nylon, Viscose)
1. Pilling
Synthetic fabrics pill faster than natural fibres. Use a fabric shaver regularly. Wash inside out in a mesh bag on a cool, gentle cycle to slow progression.
2. Snags
Pull through to the back as with knitwear. Synthetic snags are more resistant than natural fibre snags so use a finer needle or pin to ease the loop through.
3. Seam repair
Re-sew with a stretch stitch if the fabric has any give. Straight stitches pop under tension on stretchy synthetics.
4. Viscose care
Viscose (rayon) is prone to shrinking and losing shape when wet. Hand wash only in cool water, handle gently when wet, reshape and lay flat to dry. Never tumble dry. Dry cleaning is the safest option for structured viscose pieces.
Finding the Right Professional
1. Cobblers: shoes and leather bags. Longevity of the business indicates quality.
2. Tailors and seamstresses: garment repairs, alterations, linings, hems. Ask your dry cleaner for local recommendations.
3. Leather specialists: bags, jackets, goods beyond footwear. Often operate nationally with a postal service.
4. Invisible mending specialists: rare but valuable for heirloom or high-value pieces. Worth the premium.
5. Mail-in repair services: Clothes Doctor, The Restory, and many independent brands now offer postal repair. Good option if local services are limited.
Preventive Care
1. Wash less, wash cold . Most garments need washing far less than we think. Cold water weakens fibres less and protects colour.
2. Turn inside out. This reduces surface pilling and colour fade.
3. Never tumble dry wool, silk, cashmere, velvet, or structured garments.
4. Fold knitwear, don't hang it. Hanging stretches it permanently out of shape.
5. Store clean. Body oils attract moths and degrade natural fibres over time.
6. Rotate shoes. Leather needs 24 hours to fully dry between wears. Rotation doubles their lifespan.
The Economics of Repair
The maths is simple. A £20 cobbler visit on £150 boots extends them two to three years. A £15 tailor repair keeps a favourite jacket in rotation for another season. A £5 roll of repair tape avoids a £200 replacement.
The garments we repair are the ones we keep. They accumulate wear, history, and meaning. Buy less, buy better, keep it longer: repair is how that intention becomes practice.