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Exploring Puglia: Where to Stay, Eat & Visit

8th Jun '23

| By Kyrsta Anderson

Over the last 10 years or so, Puglia has emerged as a vibrant hotspot for travellers and foodies alike after suffering a long period of under-appreciation. Here we touch upon just a few of the many wonders in this picturesque region to give you a taste of what it has to offer.

Where to visit

Puglia isn’t the vastest of regions, so it's totally possible to choose a base for your stay and day trip around to other towns. It's advised to rent a car for your stay, although cycling tours are entirely doable too for the more active and eco-conscious. Most itineraries start in Bari, although we'd recommend heading straight out of Bari on arrival, starting in Monopoli or Polignano a Mare, both a short trip down the coast. Sunsets are to die for throughout Puglia, but Polignano's is extra special; this charming town is perched atop a cliff right above the clear, blue waters of the Adriatic, so take off your sunglasses and soak it in. 

Other recommended stops include a trulli stay in Alberobello - the little white huts with cone roofs invoke nothing less than a paradigm of an Italian fairytale. Stroll around the white-clad winding alleys of Ostuni, known as the “white-washed city”, a great central location to stay in Puglia. Experience the historic city of Lecce with its stunning Baroque architecture, often referred to as the "Florence of the South"; relax in the seaside town of Santa Maria di Leuca in the southern tip, and explore the charming town of Gallipoli to the West.

There are simply too many great beaches to list where you can swim in the enchantingly clear Adriatic Sea (Wolf & Badger swimwear optional), however, the areas of Salento and Gargano are particularly known for most stunning beaches, with iridescent crystal-clear water and gleaming white sand.

Where to stay

Near Otranto lies Masseria Prosperi. At its simplest, this is a house and a farm. Yet upon arrival, it becomes evidently clear that the proprietors are masters in the art of luxury in simple things. Each room features items authentically & lovingly restored, every detail a reinvention, decorated like a truly well-lived in home. This place embodies luxury with modesty and gracefulness true to the region itself. The fields surrounding the house serve the plumpest tomatoes, grazed upon gleefully by guests with Puglian bread & local olive oil - farm to table at its finest. In the evenings, guests can join the convivial owners for dinner, exchanging stories over delicious local produce which changes weekly.

For animal lovers, there are horses, donkeys, goats & geese on the farm - getting out for morning runs or some yoga before breakfast is a hell of a lot easier with a donkey alarm clock.

Borgo Canonica is another phenomenal Puglia stay, nestled midway between Alberobello and Ostuni. Surrounded by the scents and scenery of the pine and olive trees, this restored property from 1800 puts relaxation and tranquility at the core of their experience The material used in the first phase of the restoration pays respects to Apulian tradition using iron against the contrast of the pure white trulli, creating the distinctive Apulian atmosphere.

@borgocanonica

Where to eat

Puglia cuisine is truly a force to be reckoned with. After your fifth round of burrata - this creamy delight derives from here - the slow demise to gluttony starts to seem like a fair trade off for an other-worldly feasting experience. Think languid seaside grazing; towns that belong in paintings, not just your Instagram feed; leisurely cultural strolls to simply punctuate meals; wine, wine, and more wine to drink before, during, and after those meals (if you're not the unlucky designated driver). Regional wines feature the Negroamaro and Primitivo grapes, and there are plenty of vineyards you can visit too to discover more first-hand.

In Monopoli, the unassuming Osteria Perricci is great for hearty, home-cooked, unpretentious seafood lunch to escape the midday heat. After you've slept off your lunch with a sea breeze, try Don Ferrante's terrace for sun-downers. Heading south from Polignano a Mare, en route to Ostuni, the 8 course tasting menu at Masseria il Frantoio is well worth pencilling into any itinerary before walking it off in Ostuni. Think traditional rustic Puglian courses served in a picturesque masseria - formerly working farms or country houses - now a boutique hotel complete with its own gardens growing vegetables and olives.

Making your way to the charming town of Alberobello, take your lunch break at Il Pinnacolo, known as one of the best restaurants in the area. They serve Puglia’s famous regional pasta dish of o__recchiette, meaning “small ears” in Italian, mixed with turnip roots - a must try while you’re in the region. Reservations are highly recommended for this popular restaurant, especially if you’d like to sit on the terrace looking out over the stone huts.

@ristorante_il_pinnacolo

When to visit

July and August are your best bet for hot summer Meditterean days. Although a bit cooler, June or September avoids peak summer season and you'll have more of Puglia to yourself on the trip. Whenever you visit, time will gratefully slow down upon setting foot in this enchanting region of Italy.

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